Treating over a billion gallons of water annually with KSI equipment, service and expertise.
Many drain covers that were installed to comply with the Virginia Graeme Baker Pool and Spa Safety Act will soon need to be replaced. This December, it will be nine years since the deadline for ensuring that all commercial pools in the United States are outfitted with covers that meet the code.
Manufacturers were required to state a lifespan for each cover. Some are as short as three years, but majority fell between five and seven. While a massive recall in 2011 meant many covers were replaced, some only needed an alteration, such as adding a spacer ring to provide added height and distance from the sump. Those covers may soon be up for replacement as well. It is important to check with your local county health department for the specific replacement requirements, as they vary from county to county.
Do not reuse the old mounting screws; use those that come with the new product. Since the passage of VGB, there has already been at least one entrapment involving a compliant cover that was installed with the wrong screws. While power tools can be used for pulling screws out, they should not be used for tightening, because that can strip the threads. The cover must be attached in accordance with the manufacturer's design and instructions. Examine the other components to determine if replacement is needed. In some cases, the manufacturer say you must replace the plaster rings everytime you replace the covers.
It is important to keep a filing system, whether digital or on paper, as replacement is based on the date of installation. This is particularly important for facilities that change management.
Finally update any necessary forms with local government agencies. In California, for instance, each public pool must have a form on file certifying that the facility is VGB compliant. Throughout the state, drain cover replacements will need to be documented with county health departments. Ensure that the technicians are certified scuba divers in order to avoid the costly draining of your pool.
Click here to see our VGB approved drain covers.
A Note About Ideal Water Chemistry:
All of the chemical parameters listed below must be considered in relation to all the other parameters. All of these parameters work together as a system, none stand alone. For instance, to maintain good water balance indexes, low pH in pool water must be offset by a higher calcium hardness. High Total Alkalinity makes pH more difficult to change, but pH will rise a bit easier than it will go down when pool water has high TA levels. Chlorine is more effective (i.e. produces more HOCL and a higher ORP) at a lower pH, but the lower pH affects water balance. In a sense, there is really no "ideal" chemical level; there is only "ideal" results from a combination of the different parameters that produce safe, effectively sanitized pool water with a good ORP and non-damaging water balance.
Free Chlorine Range
Ideal Range = 2 ppm - 5 ppm
To increase: Add chlorine.
To decrease: Add sodium thiosulfate.
pH
Ideal Range = 7.2 - 7.8
To increase: Add soda ash.
To decrease: Add muriatic acid, sodium bisulfate or CO2.
Total Alkalinty
Range = 60 ppm - 150 ppm
Ideal Range = sodium hypochlorite pools: 80-120 ppm TA; Cal Hypo pools: 60-80ppm
To Increase: Add sodium bicarbonate or CO2
To Decrease: Column pour muriatic acid or add sodium biosulfate
Calcium Hardness
Range = 150 ppm - 1000 ppm
Ideal Range = 500 - 800 ppm
To increase: Add calcium chloride.
To decrease: Dilute, dilute, dilute...
Cyanuric Acid/Chlorine Stabilizer
Range: 10 - 30 ppm
Ideal: 15 ppm
To Increase: Add granular cyanruic acid
To Decrease: Dilute, dilute, dilute...
Pool Energy Management
Pools lose energy in a variety of ways, but evaporation is by far the largest source of energy loss in both indoor and outdoor pools (accounts for about 70%). In addition to evaporative heat loss, outdoor pools also lose energy through radiation to the sky, convection to the air, and conduction to the ground. This means that areas with low humidity and cool clear nights will have the highest pool heating costs.
A common misperception is that indoor pools do not use as much energy as outdoor pools. Actually, indoor pools use a considerable amount, and in some cases, even more energy. Indoor pools are not subjected to the fluctuations in day and night temperature like outdoor pools, but they do require significant room ventilation to control indoor humidity caused by the large amount of evaporation. The costs associated with running and maintaining these large ventilation motors can add considerable cost to the indoor facility. Therefore, the energy savings can be far greater for an indoor pool.
Since evaporation is the chief culprit of both indoor and outdoor pool heat loss, the best way to reduce the effects would be the addition of a thermal blanket. A properly sized thermal blanket can reduce evaporation over 90 percent while also reducing radiation and convection. On an outdoor pool, the use of a thermal blanket translates into an energy savings of 60 - 80 percent. On an indoor pool, the use of a thermal blanket translates into an energy savings in upwards of 85 percent.
Other energy saving measures that can further reduce energy costs are:
Energy Smart Pools is a program that was written by the U.S. Department of Energy to determine the annual cost savings generated by the use of pool blanket systems. The software takes into account the surface area of the water, the flow of air across the surface, whether shading is present, the water and room temperature, the size of the pump and ventilation motors, the activity level, the relative humidity and fuel costs to derive the approximate operating cost of the facility. The system will calculate monthly energy costs and also yields comparison costs for the same pool with a cover. This information is invaluable as it relates to budgeting for a pool blanket system. Generally, the payback time is 9 - 18 months. Please print and fill out the following form and fax back to Knorr Systems @ (714) 754-1405 for your free U.S. Department of Energy - Energy Audit.
Dosage Required to Chemically Treat 10,000 Gallons of Water
|
Parameter - Chemical |
Required Dosage
1 ppm 10 ppm |
|
|
Free Chlorine |
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|
Calcium Hypochlorite (67%) |
2 oz |
1.3 lbs |
|
Sodium Hypochlorite (12%) |
10 fl oz |
3.3 qts |
|
Chlorine Gas |
1.3 oz |
13 oz |
|
Neutralize Chlorine |
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|
Sodium Thiosulfate |
|
1.6 lbs |
|
Increase Total Alkalinity |
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|
Sodium Bicarbonate |
|
1.4 lbs |
|
Increase Calcium Hardness |
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|
Calcium Chloride 77% |
|
1.2 lbs |
|
Calcium Chloride 100% |
|
0.9 lbs |
|
Increase Stabilizer |
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|
Cyanuric Acid |
|
13 oz |
|
1 lb. = 16 ounces |
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|
Formula |
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|
Chemical to Add |
= |
Amount of Chemical (given on table) |
x |
Amount of Desired Change 10 ppm |
x |
Pool Gallons 10,000 gallons |
|
Example: |
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|
Chemical Added |
= |
1.4 lbs |
x |
(100 ppm - 50 ppm) 10 ppm |
x |
150,000 gallons 10,000 gallons |
|
Chemical Added |
= |
1.4 lbs |
x |
50 ppm 10 ppm |
x |
150,000 gallons 10,000 gallons |
= |
105 lbs |
|
To Increase pH Note: The information below assumes a total alkalinity between 60-120 ppm. If your total alkalinity is outside of the 60-120 ppm range, "fix" your T.A. first. |
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Amount of Soda Ash needed to raise pH to 7.4 |
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|
Actual pH |
10,000 gallons |
25,000 gallons |
50,000 gallons |
|
6.6 |
1 1/2 lbs |
3 3/4 lbs |
7 1/2 lbs |
|
6.8 |
1 1/4 lbs |
3 lbs |
6 lbs |
|
7.0 |
1 lbs |
2 1/4 lbs |
4 3/4 lbs |
|
7.2 |
3/4 lb |
2 lbs |
3 1/4 lbs |
|
|
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To Add: Fill a clean bucket with water. Carefully add soda ash. For best results, dilute soda ash as much as possible with water. Stir until dissolved with a clean rod. Pour solution down sides of pool. Close the pool for at least 15 minutes before allowing swimmers to re-enter. |
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Warning: Do not add more than 1 pound of soda ash per 10,000 gallons of water at a time as it may cause the pool to cloud ("milky" consistency). Also, if your alkalinity is over 120 ppm, the addition of soda ash may also cause your water to cloud. |
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To Lower pH |
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Amount of Muriatic Acid needed to lower pH to 7.6 |
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|
Actual pH |
10,000 gallons |
25,000 gallons |
50,000 gallons |
|
8.4 |
1/4 gallon |
3/4 gallon |
1 1/2 gallon |
|
8.2 |
3 1/2 cups |
1/2 gallon |
1 gallon |
|
8.0 |
2 1/2 cups |
1 1/2 quarts |
3 quarts |
|
7.8 |
1 1/3 cups |
3 1/4 cups |
1 1/2 quarts |
|
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To Add: Wear protective clothing including acid-resistant apron, chemical resistant gloves, approved breathing apparatus and eye protection. Fill a clean bucket with water. Add Muriatic Acid to water. Carefully pour down side of pool distributing solution over as large an area as possible. Close the pool for at least 30 minutes before allowing swimmers to re-enter. |
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Warning: Never mix acid with any other chemicals. If splashed in eye, immediately irrigate with water for at least 15 minutes with large amounts of water - Call 911. If splashed on skin, wash with large amounts of water for at least 30 seconds. |
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1 quart = 32 ounces |
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